Tommasi’s ‘Graticcio’, Appassimento Parziale, Veneto, Italy

This wine is somehow special and that’s why it’s worth of trying. Yet, just on the very beginning, I need to admit that – as much as I find it interesting – it doesn’t bring me to my knees. I got a bottle of 2010 Graticcio, which means among others a fruit-drying rack. This might be a hint at the production process: appassimento, that is, drying grapes in order to concentrate the sugar in them. This process takes around 120 days or more and is characteristic for Amarone. Here we have a partial appassimento, as the label says. I would say that also the success is partial. The distinctive character of Tommasi’s Amarone is definitely lacking.

It’s balanced, full-bodied and fruity, but also a bit too acid and there is little to remember about its character. Graticcio seems to be a wine of a great form, but with less content than we could expect from this beautiful body.

I’m open to be taught how to really enjoy this halfway Amarone. As for now, it is for me a cheaper but also less aromatic surrogate for the latter one.

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